I am writing this post from a hot springs RV resort on the central coast of California to inform family and friends of our new status and give some background on how it came to be…. Settle in with me for a cup of tea?

Once upon a time, which seems like a lifetime ago, but was really less than a year, we lived in this beautiful land called HW Cohousing (some of you may be familiar with it). We loved it dearly and at the same time were finding it hard to settle there permanently for several reasons. One main reason (financial), but other small reasons underlying (not the least of which is that we are finally admitting that we are nomads) … Anyway, the day came when our landlord said that he was ready to sell the house and that we would be entering a month to month contract. We would need to show the house and would have 30 days to relocate when/if it sold. Shannon panicked. With visions of having the house sold out from under the family, we planned a trip to California in the spring of 2010. We loaded up and drove to the central coast.

It was a good trip but not feeling inclined to pack up and move there the idea struck, like lightening, to travel for a year. It stuck. We bought a fifth wheel fixed it up and took our lives on the road 3 months later. We toured the SW (again), met friends in canyonlands for a rendezvous and then made our way south to Mexico. Ironically 6 weeks into the trip Chester’s bread and butter contract with the Southern Utes dried up – this was big news after 15 years of working with them. We almost turned away from our travel plans but decided to continue onward and we are glad we did. At that time our ties to Durango began to subconsciously unravel.

Mexico was blissful. We set the need to determine all future plans aside and lived sea port to campground – Mexican town to taco stand, moving along in the moment until…. late January 2011. It was like one minute we were on the road in Mexico and the next we were making plans about our future flying up fast to meet us in the face. We thought long and hard about the next move by the beginning of February came up with 3 separate plans of action: They were…

Plan A. Chester find a national or international job utilizing his skills in water quality and move where his new job took us.

Plan B. Move somewhere in California so that Chester could use his water quality connections and develop BUGS in a different direction. Land somewhere with a big enough demographic to support Embody Real Beauty for Shannon and with good schools for Addy and Jack.

Plan C. Move back to Durango and try to find regular jobs to support the family while the kids finish school.

Plan B became plan A sometime around Feb 10th and we left Mexico on the 14th. We were here by February 17th. Did you know you can travel from south of PV Mexico to central Cali in 3 long days? It was and continues to be a whirlwind and a bit of a culture shock.

That brings us present. It is the 28th of February and we are looking to settle in San Luis Obispo. The weather has been stormy, rainy and cold and we have enjoyed it thoroughly. We haven’t seen rain in 6 months. It has been years since I have seen soaking and sustained rains like this. I love it.

The schools look good, initial recon of salons is showing them to be good/marginal and BUGS work is miraculously already starting to roll in. Chester seems to have a knack for attracting work (thank god).

That is our story. Sending our love.

Shannon and family

With our journey down the Colorado ending at Golfo de Santa Clara, we began the next leg of the journey: our excursion down the mainland of Mexico to explore the Sea of Cortez.

The drive on the “new” highway from Golfo to Puerto Penasco was a breeze. Hardly any traffic, no potholes and a shoulder. It was early in the day and things were feeling up on the heels of our first night in Mexico. Upon arriving in Penasco, we hit the bank, Banamex, exchanged our dollars for pesos and set out to find a landing spot. From the Church’s, Mexican guide to Camping guide book, we were directed to a primitive camping spot adjacent to full-hookup RV park. According to the book it cost $5 a night to camp on the beach. At this point in the journey my needs were simple: get somewhere that felt safe and settle in to find my Mexican groove.

photo by Adelei Carman

Mission accomplished. The Reef RV park sits about 5 miles outside of town along a very sandy stretch of beach. It has full hookups on one side with all the basics available: dump, water, laundry, wifi (this blew my mind), hot showers and a little store. On the other side, minimal fee for a secure spot on the beach. The sand is hard packed. And it is a tourist facility, geared toward Americans, I am sorry to admit that is what I wanted and needed this early in our trip. Mexican culture, I reckon can come later.

photo by Adelei Carman

We met friends here in Puerto Penasco, Mexico. Traveling creates the most amazing opportunity for camaraderie. Opportunity that doesn’t exist otherwise between people of different walks, talks and colorful styles of life.

I am amazed and humbled to connect so sweetly with the new road friends. Jamie, scott, Maddy and Jake, thank you for the rendevouz and we hope to see you again down the rocky road to bliss. Your hospitality, flan, shrimp tacos and ice quenched a hunger and thirst that began for me in the states as we left family and friends. I am better for having my boundaries pushed off road to take in the views from the top of competition hill.

photo by Adelei Carman

Weeks on the beach here are marked by sunrise, tides and sunsets, winds and temperature. The flies have an unwelcome but noticeable presence as do the Mexican dogs. The birds; seagulls and pelicans, cormorants, shore birds and chickadees are the main Fauna. Ocassionally, dolphin arch and flick tail just offshore presumably hunting schools of fish. There are no trees, no grass, bushes or anything green.

photo by Adelei Carman

The tides here are second to some place in Alaska for the largest in the world. During the fool moon, high to low tide drops the water 20 feet and creates an entirely new landscape to explore. Rocks are exposed and tide pools revealed. The tide pools are not terribly interesting outside of hermit crabs and the occasional minnow sized fish but fun exploring none the less.

We were tipped off by a fellow driving down our beach about about a beached whale in Chollo Bay, just around the point. We hopped in the truck and as we wound our way around the dirt streats we were tipped off by the smell first. The beach wasn’t sandy but rocky and the whale was in the water. Not what I expected to see. The size of the whale yes, the bloody undulating morbid dance it was doing across the waves was a surprise. We didn’t stay long.

Top 5 things to do in Penasco:

  1. Visit the fish market in old town
  2. Be here for high and low tide at the full moon
  3. Go to the Super Ley, supermarket and get some pan (bread) y verduras (veggies)
  4. walk the long stretch of sandy beach and collect shells and sea glass
  5. go out to rocky point and fish

After two weeks here we are headed to Bahai de Kino. Adios.

Once I stopped denying that the whole Thanksgiving thing was
going to happen this year despite my absence at the family dinner
table, I got excited about the prospect of cooking a big
Thanksgiving dinner in Mexico. That revelation happened on
Tuesday the week of. Luckily being an explorer at heart, I
didn’t feel bound in the least to traditional turkey dinner. The
Super Ley, supermarket in Puerto Penasco, Mexico wouldn’t have
given me the culinary support to pull off a traditional dinner
anyway and besides, gluten free since spring this year, I secretly I
knew that I couldn’t eat Thanksgiving dinner without the bread
stuffing. It would’ve been just too depressing. Like any true
pioneer living on the road in Mexico, I looked onward and out to
sea, elevated by the opportunity to feast on abundant fresh
seafood.

Wednesday evening I opened the cookbook and started coming up to
speed on seafood: how to buy it, what to look for, and how to
cook it. By the time I left for the fish market Thursday morning
I was prepared to cook anything from octopus to sea bass. Or at
least delusional enough to think I could pull it off. To boost
my guts and confidence, I played one word over and over in my
mind. FRESH.

The markets were colorful, noisy and intimidating. We wound our
way around vendors getting up in our face about delicious
restaurant lunches and all-inclusive vacations in paradise. We
turned away from people wanting to sell us blankets and
sunglasses and kept our eyes on the target. The fish market.
Closing in on the market stalls, I paused to see where others
were buying fish. I settled on the 3 brothers market, took a
deep breath and entered the chaos, hoping I would appear
confident and knowledgeable, and not like the inexperienced
sucker I am. Immediately on entering, I was mesmerized by the
choices and smells. Both repulsed and strangely seduced by the
experience.

There was flounder and snapper, sea bass, oysters and clams,
octopus, shrimp and even stingray for sale. I settled on
snapper, clams and shrimp. For $20 I walked away with 1.5 lbs.
shrimp, 5 pounds of snapper and ½ dozen large clams, satisfied
and a feeling bit smug.

We started at 4 and cooked until 7, together in our tiny kitchen.
I got to wear the apron because I was appointed head chef for the
day. First we fixed and ate clam seviche with tortilla chips as
we worked. Chester killed and cleaned the clams, I squeezed lime
juice and stirred them together with diced tomatoes, onions, and
cilantro into a perfectly delicious chunky salsa.

For dinner we gathered round our little handmade table in our
little traveling home and gave thanks for our time together on
the beach and friends and family back home. We ate the freshest
red snapper, broiled to perfection with coarsly ground pepper,
olive oil and topped with fire roasted, red pepper relish. Fresh
pineapple salsa and tomatillo hot sauce added a smorgasbord of
flavors to the fish despite the fact that it only needed a
squirt of lemon. Baked potatoes, topped with butter, sour
cream, pico de gallo and chives went along side with a hearty
romaine salad. The shrimp, after being braised with olive oil
and simmered in orange juice and rosemary turned out to be
lacking freshness. We didn’t eat it.

Just like back home we rolled around too full for comfort and
then played a game of Pictionary and read our family novel.
Lights out by 10:00.